This should be the route I'll be following...

Friday 31 July 2009

Friday 31st July

OK, so the love affair with Kansas is over. Bored of it now. We've cycled 40 or so miles today so far with a side wind, not even a head wind, and it's a nightmare. Fortunately the aspirations are low today and we're probably stopping in the next town, Scott City, which is only 24 miles away. The scenery is now how I imagined Kansas to be. Flat, can see nothing for miles, sunny. Last night was great though. After Chris and Chris set off early again yesterday, we met up again about 15 miles from Bazine where there was Elaine's Bicycle Oasis, where we all decided we were staying, mainly becauseof the promise of the hot shower. Got there, home-cooked meal almost ready, finally had the hot shower, which felt soooo good, then stuffed ourselves on chicken, pasta, pesto, home-grown sweetcorn, tomatoes, squash etc etc. It was fantastic. Elaine and Dan were great too. 7th Day Adventists i think (no idea what that means exactly), really generous, happy to feed up weary cyclists. Chris asked her why she decided to start operating the B+B for cyclists and she answered 'Because I saw all these miserable cyclists going past'. I think that's because it's frequently 100 degrees plus here and they were passing out from sunstroke and exhaustion. I did the cheap option and didn't get a bed but got to sleep on the porch in my sleeping bag which was good - kind of under the stars but not quite. Although I was covered in cat hair when I woke up - I must have had the cats bed. Dan brought his mate in to talk to Chris about teaching kids about drugs this morning - he's 6 years clean from meth, coke, weed...it was like a morning at home, all the drugs talk. You're missing out Alex - you should have come! So after last nights very good evening of relaxing and home cooked food, it's back to normal tonight. I think we'll be in the lobby of some athletic club tonight. But it's only $10.
1 more day of Kansas, then it's Colarado...and not far to the 11000 ft Hoosier Pass. That ain't going to be flat.
By the way, I've no credit and no reception on the phone if anyone has attempted to get in touch. Going to try and sort that out next.

Thursday 30 July 2009

Is it Thursday?

Losing track of the days and dates...I'm in Larned, temporarily, recovering from this mornings 50+ mile ride with no gas stations, no grocery stores, no nothing apart from 1 long, straight road, a few cows and Kansas to look at. It was quite dull. I think there is another 2 days of this then the Rockies start to kick in. I have got the opportunity of visiting The Barbed Wire Museum this afternoon, which sounds like something I shouldn't miss. Or the alternative is The Stone Post Museum, which exists because they had to erect stone posts to connect barbed wire to as there were no trees left to use for timber. Spoilt for choice. This all depends on me not fannying around for too long, which I am particularly good at I now realise. I did manage to leave at about 745 this morning though, which is good for me. I was motivated by the fact there is a chance of a hot shower if I cycle about 110 miles today and as I haven't had a hot shower for at least 3 days (I think) that sounds quite appealing. The prospect of yet another Wet-Wipe wash isn't doing anything for me.
I came past some wildlife refuge on the way, salt marshes and wetlands, habitats for birds, deer etc etc according the the information board (which I bet every cyclist reads as there's little else to do). Unfortunately for the birds, this little oasis of natural habitat is also advertised as a spot for shooting. Nice. The blurb was talking about how habitat destruction was having an impact on bird populations and so on - mmm....and possibly being shot out of the sky might play a small part too! And also in this wildlife refuge was some of those little nodding donkey (or is it dog?) things that pump oil out of the ground. They dont cause any pollution at all....I did see a very pretty red headed woodpecker though. And various dead frogs - roadkill.
Chris and Chris haven't managed to shake me off yet...ended up at the same City Park last night and my need for a shower means we'll probably end up in the same place tonight. If they aren't carefull we'll be spending much of the next 4 weeks together.
Better go..need phone credit and the Barbed Wire Museum is calling....

Wednesday 29 July 2009

Day 22 in the Big Brother House

ok, well Kansas actually. Lovely, flat Kansas. Flat, flat, flat , flat , flat. And a bit wet. And not that hot. Which is all good. America is still having unseasonal weather so Portland, where I should be meeting Alex, was 102 degrees yesterday, Denver, where I'm meeting mum and dad was 59 (bring a jumper!! I think it was 72 today though) and it's still in the early 80s in Kansas, which is great as far as I'm concerned. It seems the Americans are as obsessed about the weather as much as the Brits. If you go in a cafe with a TV they nearly always have The Weather Channel on.
I wasn't so happy with the weather when I was crossing a relatively high bit of Kansas yesterday during a thunderstorm. Me on my bike was the highest thing for miles and there was nowhere to take cover, so I just carried on, thinking I was going to get hit by lightening, which obviously i wasn't, which was a relief. I ended up sat on the porch or some church for half an hour then when i set off, discovered a cafe 100 yards up the road.
After that, the sun came out and it was gorgeous. Massive prairie, lots of cows, big, big sky and nothing else. It was fab. I like this end of Kansas. Got to the city park in Cassoday and found Chris and Chris again who had had a late start so hadn't made it any further. Sat around eating pizza with them for a while before we set up camp on a bandstand. They were off by six this morning but we should all be in Nickerson tonight. I couldn't face that early a kick off. I've started listening to the radio so I'm sitting around more and taking longer to do things. I did an hour of a classic country station this morning - quality.
Met 5 or 6 cyclists heading east today, all part of the same gang but spread out. They've met each other along the route and decided to ride together. A couple of them are planning on 200 miles today, aiming to finish around 2am. Seems a little extreme. One of them is a film student so he's filming everything and going to edit it all when he starts back in August. I gave him your address Beth so he might give you a call.
I had to laugh at the white line down the side of the road. They must spray the line on as at one point they had sprayed a white line over a big bit of tyre that was lying in the way and further on, they sprayed some dog or cayote turd that was on the route. They must have been in a rush to finish.
I met a Sheffield guy called Paul Davenport who must be a professional cyclist - he writes for the cycling press, cycled all over the world. He was very chilled, limiting himself to 60 miles a day so he didn't finish early and end up having to wait in Yorktown for a week for his flight home.
I now have money again having come very close to running out - thanks mum and dad. I got one of the Thomson Travel Cards which you load up with currency, then you can use it whereever the mastercard sign is etc. I was told by the Thomson person I could load it up electronically, which you cant. Then when mum went into the Thomson shop with cash, she was told you had to load it up using a credit card, which you don't. They are f***ing idiots. Anyway, it's all sorted now.
Lots more miles to go today, probably in the rain, so better go. I like the way the locals here see you and laughingly say 'you're gonna get wet'. Yeah, great, thanks.

Monday 27 July 2009

The spring at the mill


81 million gallons of water a day surface here apparently

Hairy in missouri



Fire station


Cant keep away. .

Still smiling


Watching mamma mia in a cheap motel having cycled 131 miles, half of them in the rain, got a puncture 10 miles from the end. . Surprisingly, i dont want to kill anyone

Chorlton in kentucky


I'm in Berea. . Nearly killed me getting here. Its cool though. . A bit chorlton, lots of artisans

It's Monday so it must be Kansas

It's 1.30 here and I've only cycled 15 miles so far today but that's fine as I've washed all my hideously skanky clothes, got new suncream, got a new chain and cassette on my bike, so life is great. And according to the Weather Channel is going to be cool (relatively) and possibly wet so Kansas might not be so much of a nightmare after all. Famous last words....
What's happened since Friday...mmm...Missouri turned from being covered in trees to being Cheshire, without the tea shops or the footballers. Lots of cows, fields, rolling hills (for a change). I've already forgotten where I stayed on Friday night. I can remember Saturday lunchtime but Friday night is a bit of a blank. I met Chris and Chris on Saturday, female Chris is from Vermont and male Chris is from Cheadle Hulme (effectively Manchester) though he's been out here for 7 years. They are sound, spent the last couple of nights camping with them. They headed off at 630 this morning to beat the heat so if I get my act together I'll probably meet up with them again tonight or the next couple of days. So we met up on Saturday lunchtime and were going to cycle together but as I was leaving town I spotted the mobile shop where i bought the SIM card from that isn't letting me access the internet. As this was likely to be the last chance to sort it out for 700 miles, I thought I'd give it a go. An hour and a half later, it still wasn't sorted and I had 45 miles to cycle before it got dark in 3 hours. I managed it but I was knackered. Ah, I've remembered Fridays night stop now...behind a grocery store in the middle of nowhere. Not especially memorable or scenic. The store sold farming supplies but had a cafe of sorts, serving breakfast of sorts, so I had a couple of bad cheese and ham sandwiches for breakfast with the farmers. I don't know where the wives hang out. The men appear too old to have young kids so they aren't likely to be looking after them but all these breakfast places are pretty much women free zones, apart from the staff. Well, they probably dont want to listen to rodeo or fishing stories I suppose. Stetsons have put an appearance in over the past couple of days, mentioning rodeos has reminded me. Didn't see any till Thursday but definately more common now.
So Friday's camp was behind a shop, Saturdays was in a city park in Ash Grove (one for you mum) which was ok. Last night was also in a city park, in Pittsburg, another town who's golden years were about 60 years ago I suspect. On the way in a big sign announced "Pittsburg - A Main Street Town" which I took to mean that the town centre was actually in the town centre. No. The retail parks on the north side of town were called "Pittsburgs Main Street" and the town centre was almost as dead as all the other I've come across. And in the spirit of being in America I've been to Walmart again (for fruit) and also Starbucks (it's the only place to get decent cakes).It's amazingly difficult to not shop in chain stores. And the guy in the bike shop did me a big favour as it was supposed to be his day off but when I rang him on Saturday he agreed to do it - after 2 hours messing about though I think he was regretting it. Mind you, it did cost me 100 quid.
I'm glad to report Kansas is actually flat, which is nice. I've mailed 10lb of my gear to a town 600 miles ahead to reduce the amount of stuff I'm carrying so I might get through Kansas a bit quicker. By all accounts, it's somewhere to get through ASAP so with less gear and new chain it should be a breeze!
We ate at a chinese buffet last night - "Yummees". Classy. It wasn't wholly authentic (not that I suppose English chinese food is) but there was garlic bread, sushi, chips, chicken nuggets...But I was stuffed for $10 so it was ok. I've just remember a salad from Saturday lunchtime. The waitress asked if I wanted a jello salad. Enquiring as to what this was, she brough one out. It was jelly with fruit in, topped with fake cream, that was to go with my hot beef sandwhich. Bizarre. I declined.
I sent 3 photos which aren't on here so God knows where they are. I bet I've been charged for sending them though. Modern technology....
The roadkill hasn't been that exciting. A great moth the other day - big and green, with a swallowtail going on. Must look it up. More armadillos, lots of them, a possum or two. Chris and Chris have been capuring their favourite roadkills on photos...perhaps I should start, with the more intact ones.
Time to go otherwise it's going to be a rush to get to the campsite again. See ya...

Friday 24 July 2009

It's Friday and I'm melting.....

Oohh, it's hot today. And hilly. My most favourite combination, like ever. Have paused in Summersville, Missouri for some time in an air-conditioned building (the library) and a comfy chair.
Where was I the last time? Going to Farmington Fire Station I think. They were cool, and firefighters and fire stations are the same the world over. If I could get the damn phone to work I'd have posted some pictures - if there's a resaurant in this town perhaps I'll get it sorted there. I've no real aspirations to cover a great many miles today.
I spent the night at the fire station on a camp bed in their control unit, which is very much like ours but has a microwave, TV and cooking area in it, and is a lot bigger. A guy called Sonny turned up, also crossing the States by bike but he's in a recumbent bike and it's powered by his arms as he's in a wheelchair when not on his bike. I have no idea how he made it through Virginia on arm power, that's amazing. And the last couple of days must have been hard work too - it was very difficult by leg power, let alone arm power. He's a cool guy - I'm met other people on the way who'd mentioned him, I'd be wondering if our paths would cross. It's quite easy to miss people as there are a variety of short-cuts to be taken if you get talking to the right people. The firefighters directed us on an alternate route which by-passed a couple of the major hills in this Ozark region. No-one mentioned the Ozarcs when talking about mountains. It's funny (well, it isn't actually)that when I was in Virginia, people said "once you're clear of Virginia, it flattens out then" and when I was in Kentucky people said " Once you're clear of Berea, it flattens out then" etc etc. IT HASN'T GOT FLAT YET. Allegedly, now I'm in Summersville, it should flatten off. And Kansas is next, and that is flat.
For Alex and Sally - I met a guy called Bennet who reminded me of Biz. That was strange. Looks like Biz, and called Bennet....oohhhhh. Spooky.
Road Kill of the Day (for yesterday) was Armadillo. Seen two so far, both squashed. Rescued another turtle or tortoise. Seen a live Racoon finally. Still no bears.
Somehow I managed to 'loose' two screws that hold the rear pannier rack onto the bike yesterday. Well, they weren't there this morning when I was about to set off and I can't imagine I was riding without them yesterday as everything would have fallen off the back of the bike. Very strange. I was camping last night at Owls Bend and someone could have messed about with it but that seems as unlikely as them falling out of their own accord. Very strange. Anyway, it's all held together by the cord from my old Fire Service kit bag that I disposed of at the airport. Fortunately I figured the cord would come in handy at some point so I kept it. Good move. There's a bike shop in Pittsburg, Kansas, which I should get to on Monday so they can sort it out, as wellas my need for a new chain and cartridge that I'm praying (not literally) will not self-destruct before then. The last bike shop didn't have the spares but he warned me it was on it's last legs.
Missouri is full of trees, and hills, so can't see very much from the roads. Climbed up some big observation tower, un-manned, so got a good view of more hills and the tree tops, and eagles. For miles. And miles. It's funny how litigous they are here but you can climb an un-manned observation tower that is easy to fall off. They would have a nervous breakdown in the UK at that prospect. There was a fantastic river at this campsite last night, called Current River, so named I think as it was flowing pretty fast, creating some good currents. I didn't swim but had a wash in there (no showers on the campsite) and even sat on the side you were in danger of getting dragged off. Plenty of kids and families playing around though. It was a great spot.
Another rest spot on the way here was some 18th century mill and pond. It's actually where a spring emerges but it pumps out 81 million gallons of water a day! And its so clear, I was desparate to jump in but you're not allowed as it's also a delicate ecosystem it seems and I would have contaminated it.
Alex - you don't need a special driving license and most if not all cars here are automatics I think.
Mum and dad - have you got the form done that clears you for initial access to the USA? I can't remember what it's called but it's on the US Gov website, it's free and you have to do it. Alex has done it.
Binners. Engaged!!!! Lol.
Thanks Richie(s) for keeping things alive. Or are you telling porkies?
Have a good holiday Louis - let me know what you get up to. Don't let your dad have too many beers!
I'll try and get some pictures up. Bye for now.

Wednesday 22 July 2009

Wednesday, day 15

I'm in the Bike Surgeon in Carbondale, Illinois getting the thing looked at. It's ok but whilst I'm near a bike shop, thought I'd get it checked out.
Well, unsurprisingly, I'm not a card-carrying Baptist just yet. Bob and Violet were very nice though and only gave me a bit of faith stuff - how significant a thing it is in their lives, why and so on. Then we got onto to healthcare and other relatively non-contravertial topics. I left theirs at 715 am and got to the very cheap motel at 830 last night, having cycled 130 miles. By that stage i wasn't that tired, just slightly hysterical. I ended up on highway 13, which is kind of like a bigger A6, with a hard shoulder, which was the bit I cycled on. So at about 3pm it started raining, when i had about 40 miles to go. After about 30 miles I finally resorted to listening to my music, which i hadn't done at all till this point. This road was boring though...long, straight, nothing of interest at all. So whilst negotiating a town called Marion and it's associated highways, intersections, lane changes etc, in the rain, I got a puncture. When i saw the sate of the tire I was only surprised it wasn't sooner - I was nearly through to the inner tube. But was I pissed off - no!!! It must have been the dance music, the very hefty caffeine drink I'd had 10 minutes before and the rain....took me back to walking home from clubbing in the rain. Far from wanting to murder anyone, I was actually in a good mood. I obviously was a bit insane though as whilst pumping the tire up, I had Benny Benassi 'Satisfaction' on in my headphones (look it up on YouTube, it's worth it to get the complete picture) and I was acting out the video whilst doing the pump action, at the side of the road, full lycra, in the rain. I almost had to stop as I was laughing too much. Mmmm...possibly was loosing it just a bit.
Was going to camp at Crab Apple Orchard Wildlife Refuge but as i was totally soaked I went for the cheapo motel option, which was so the best choice. I haven't dried anything out, I'm still wearing wet gear, but at least I didn't spend half the night trying not to touch the sides of the tent and letting the rain in. It was a shame the weather was so crap as the wildlife place looke dfantastic as I cycled through it. A massive lake, all wild vegetation, un-tamed it appeared, looked great.
It appears I can't send pics at the moment - I sent one last night and it's not on here, so who knows where it is. Hopefully will end up at a fire station in Farmington, Missouri tonight, 80 miles off. We'll see how the legs hold up.

Monday 20 July 2009

Monday 20th

Just a quick hello...staying at the Christian Cyclist Hostel at the Baptist Church in Sebree, Kentucky. Once again, the people here have proved themselves to be amazingly friendly and hospitable...I can't imagine getting this kind of welcome back in the UK. Bob and Violet, the pastor and his wife have fed me, given me somewhere to kip, and we've spent the evening chatting about religion, healthcare, communities. It's been good. Met a few other cyclists today, most of whom had stayed here too. Violet was saying she has fed 142 cyclists so far this year. Keith and Vernelle are heading in the same direction as me, 2 American ex sergents in the Army I think. They took a video which they are putting on their MySpace site for mum and dad - I'll text you the web address!
One lad had just been bitten by some stupid dog but fortunately that incident obviously satiated it's appetite as it couldn't be bothered chasing me when I went past it an hour or so later. It hadn't bothered with the other 3 American lads who were on their way east too. They were trying to kidnap a cat from a shop in Utica when I left them. It didn't look that impressed.
Kentucky has not been that exciting again today, although it has got noticably flatter which is a bonus. Lots of sweetcorn (although for cattle feed, not human consumption I've just learned), soy and tobacco is been grown round here.
A potentially very long day tomorrow, which may be possible if it stays flat. If it's hilly, it wont be! With any luck I'll be in Carbondale tomorrow night, at Crab Apple State Park or something like that, probably sore and moaning!

Sunday 19 July 2009

Day 12, Sunday 19th

I'd like to tell you where I am but i don't exactly know...somewhere near the Falls of Rough, still Kentucky (although i have crossed a time zone now). I'm staying with Beth and Garry who found me via facebok and offered me a place to stay for the night - and very cool it is too. Right out in the sticks, 70 acres of fields, woods, a stream, rocks, a couple of horses, dogs and cats. There were chickens but the cayotes got them. They are just finishing off building their new house next to this 'cabin' where they live now. They are cyclists and offer their place for the night to other cyclists in need of a shower and a decent nights kip. The people out here are amazingly friendly. I could quite happily live here. Even the dogs are nice and after the recent experiences, that's saying something. I did resort to having gravel in my handlebar bag to launch at the annoying dogs - it works I was pleased to discover. Ha.
The previous 2 nights have been under canvas but not sadly on campsites where there have been mod cons such as toilets and showers...the first night in...in...erm...forgotten already was in a county park, which basically means like Wythenshawe park, but without the scumbags. I just turned up, phoned the local coppers, told them I was there and that was that. Last night was similar but the park was already locked up so I ended up next to a water tower behind the High School. Glam. It was quiet though...at least i didn't have to listen to some boring biker droning on for ever like a few nights ago, talking about the powder coating company he worked for. Bothered. Hodgenville (Abraham Lincoln's boyhood town) was cool, mainly because there was a classic car rally on in the centre of town so there were lots of superb aged American classics there - big 50s things with fins, all shiny and everything, lots of chrome, it was fab. With the addition of a 1/2 pound burger followed by ice cream, it was a very good night. Everyone in town clocked me of course, taking lots of pictures in my lycra, and loads of them chatted to me, very friendly.
Todays cycling wasn't particular exciting. Managed to go the wrong way for about 5 miles, which was quite annoying, especially as it involved a reasonable amount of hills. I'm blaming Alex for that as we were texting at that point and I must have been distracted. And been thinking about Ruby lots the past few days, with anniversaries and everything.
Staying in some Baptist Church tomorrow (I know, if I get through the door without being struck down) , if I get my act together. It's a long ride I think, although after tonights luxury that should be fine! Laters...

Friday 17 July 2009

Opps, I forgot

More childish stuff...

I cycled past Gay's Creek, KY yesterday and also Knobs Lick Baptist Church. He he he....

Day 10, Friday 17th, Berea, KY (that's Kentucky)

Had a morning off!! Yaayy...Managed to get my cycling gear washed and dried, after cycling round for an hour looking for the laundromat. This place is cool, a cross between Hebden Bridge and Chorlton, a bit smarter, and without the homoshexules - there is still a lot of God here. I've actually eaten real food - cookies that have recently come out of an oven and not a packet and ice cream that was home made. I've been trying to find some fruit and veg to eat but didn't see anywhere whilst i was cycling round so asked at the tourist office. Literally, the only place that sells fruit in the whole town (a college town with a population of 10000+) is Walmart (AKA Asda). That's what happens I suppose when supermarkets rule the world. Scumbags.
Berea is the craft and folk capital of Kentucky and is in the top 25 small art towns in the US (can you tell I'm using the computer in the tourist office?). I'm staying at the Morning Glory B+B (!!!) (well, I had to look) which is so-named after the Morning Glory flowering plant (Bindweed in the UK I think). It's cool - the people who run it are weavers so there is all handmade stuff all over, and as I type they are making stuff on the looms in the shop downstairs.
Opposite the shop is a village green type place where there was a jam session last night with about 15 people playing bluegrass and country music, which was great whilst i was eating the ice cream. It's gospel tonight which I'll miss unfortunately.
I suppose I'd better be making tracks soon. I'm having an easy day cycling today and am not sure where tonights destination will be yet, but it will be back to camping after the last 2 nights extravagence in motel and B+B. And i won't be doing a repeat performance of the long long day I did yesterday. I was really rather tired at the end of it. I did see a real snake, alive and everything yesterday, basking in the sun. It was about 4 foot long and black. And I found a turtle (or was it a tortoise?) in the middle of the road, which was also alive. I'd seen some very squashed roadkill the day before that i thought could have been turtle-like but didn't know if they had them here. Anyway, having found an intact, alive one, I can conclude they do.
Oh, and I've read Ben Goldacre's book (he's the Guardian science writer), Bad Science, which was very good. All about the reasons why and how scientific research is twisted by the media etc, homeopathy, nutritionists and so on. I'd recommend it.
Time to go...laters

Thursday 16 July 2009

Booneville, Kentucky

Still alive, despite the best attempts by the dogs and the coal trucks. To be fair, the truck drivers do generally give a very wide berth, but its still hair-raising when the 60 tonne wagons hurtle past at 55mph a few feet away. I haven't bought the pepper spray yet as there hasn't been anywhere to buy it from. There are a fair few garages, grocery stores a few cafe type places but as for anything else, there's not much. Found a Dairy Queen yesterday. Sadly it was another fast food burger joint. And if I had had to do a blind food-testing on what I was eating I wouldn't have known what it was. It wasn't hideous, just unidentifiable.
Stayed in a very dismal looking motel last night, as the camp sites have dried up and I haven't yet tried the knocking on either church or random strangers doors. Two lads I met yesterday, Matt and Zack going east, had only done that and had been pretty successful. Apparently the further west you get the more hospitable the locals. One thing about the hotels and motels is they let me take my bike in the room. Perhaps it reflects the standard of premise I'm staying at. Although as hideous as the motel looked, it had a bath!!! A bath!!!!! Bliss. It wasn't particularly big but it was good and I managed to wash my very minging gear too. Thee's no way this clothing is going to last to Oregon without disintegrating. It's wet with sweat for about 10 hours a day before it gets a rinse through, dries on the back of the bike for the next day, then the cycle goes on again. And it's rank now. I dread to think what I'll be like in 2,3, 6 weeks time.
I think I might have run out of hills...at last! Well, until the Rockies, but they aren't as bad as the Appalacians I'm told. I'd be very unhappy if I was cycling east and had Virginia at the end of my trip, when I'd just cycled 3700 miles then I had to go up and down these endless hills. At least they are out of the way for me. Famous last words.
I can't say I've noticed much difference between Virginia and Kentucky, apart for the reducing hills. It's still very green and forested, less money around I think. Lots of cars just rusting into the ground. The gene pool might be slightly smaller here.
I still haven't got my mobile working properly. I need to be next to a landline so the equivalent to Orange can phone me back then conduct some tests on my phone. Sounds easy. It's just getting next to a phone that works at the same time as my mobile having reception. Ha. Not happened yet. And this is the side of the country with good reception.
Tonights stop will hopefully be Berea, which is artistic according to Matt and Zack from yesterday. I might have to have the morning off tomorrow so I can get my clothes washed in a real washing machine and actually look around one of these towns as opposed to just eating the crappy food and zooming off.
Still not seen a bear. Not even a dead one. Lots of dead raccoons, possums (I think - or are they Australian?), a few more snakes, deer...seem to have run out of groundhogs. Perhaps they are just faster runners in Kentucky. And not one advert for Kentucky Bourbon (yes Janet, the drink not the biscuit...lol).

Tuesday 14 July 2009

4th Time Lucky

If this doesn't work this time I'm sacking it off. I spent over an hour yesterday doing 3 attempts at updating this. Twice in the morning on my mobile, didn't publish, then about half an hour on a computer in a little town, and just when I went to publish the essay I'd written, the stupid thing crashed.
Anyway, it's another gorgeous morning in sunny Virginia, which means it'll be baking by 1pm. Hopefully I'll be back in the forests again by then. Spent last night in the Grindstone Campsite (not Grindhouse as I kept calling it) in the Jefferson National Forest. More beautiful forest. There must be more forest here than there is England. It's cool during the day but I nearly froze when I set off this morning - I actually had to put extra layers on - and I even slept IN my sleeping bag last night, not just on it. They make you pitch your tent on gravel in these State Park campsites, which doesn't make sense to me. It is small gravel but I'd still rather be on the grass. I was particularly unimpressed the night before last at Claytor Lake State Park when I turned up half an hour before dark, pitched my tent on a nice soft bit of grass, went for a shower, by which time it was dark. I'd been on the road 11 hours that day. I was tired. Then the police turned up and told me I had to re-pitch my tent on the gravel. But I didn't swear, well, not out loud.
I'm surviving quite well so far. The sore bits are only short-term sore, ie once I've had a rest or a nights kip, I'm ok again. My poor thighs have taken a battering with all these hills. If I'd spent 2 months cycling around the Lakes I might have been better prepared. The muscle just on the inside of your thigh, behing your knee has been really sore. I've barely been able to touch it at night, when attempting to massage it back to normality. Some of the hills have been seemingly endless...lot sof swearing and rest stops involved. And I'm working my way through the massive variety of drinks on sale here. There are hundreds. I can only drink so much water before I'm bored. There are sodas, caffeine free, sugar free, only natural, elecrolyte only, electrolyte with sugar, with juice, without juice, isotonic.....too much choce. And not enough recycling!
As you may be aware, I'm not a particular fan of dogs. This isn't likely to change whilst I'm here. The stupid f**king things. I've spent a reasonable amount of time trying to decide if I could launch one of them with a single kick, without falling off my bike, as they chase me down the road. I figure if it's a jack russell or smaller I'll be ok. Most of the big ones just get to the edge of their property and lose interest, it's the little yappy things with something to prove that chase you forever. Which is ok if its early, or you've just had a break, or your going downhill, but whn its hot, you're going uphill and you're knackered I want to get off and stamp on them. Rant over. For now. A retired couple I met yesterday discussed tactics with me. They had set off from San Francisco, cycling, on 11th May so had had the experience. The recommended course of attack is to scream at the offending dog, then apply airhorn followed by pepper spray. The airhorns are available from Walmart, the pepper spray from bike shops (where else?). Pepper spray is about to be bought as I should be in Kentucky in the next couple of days, where the problem is worse it seems.
I met 3 American lads yesterday, who are going the same way as me but to San Francisco. All just finished architecture degrees and cant get work so decided to travel instead. Two of them were physically fit, the 3rd isn't, yet. I gathered from the conversation with the unfit one (June)that this was proving to be an issue as the others wanted to press on and he was holding them back. And they are only 5 days into the trip...That's partly why are only half-heartedly tried to convince anyone to join me on this ride. I didn't want to negotiate on rest stops, distances to night stops etc etc. I wanted the freedom to do what I wanted, when I felt like it, without a discussion...lol...no different from ususal really. (sorry love x)
I can't remember where I'm heading for tonight and the map is outside, which is too far to locate. I think it's Breaks. I do know there is a major hill between me and it. Then into Kentucky tomorrow...perhaps I'll have to try some Bourbons.

Monday 13 July 2009

Childish, me?


Was she a pushy lesbian?

Saturday 11 July 2009

I've died and gone to hell


I'm kamping tonight. . You'd love it Alex. Its full of huge RVs, bigger than my house, and guess what? Tonight it's Christmas in July! Santa is here apparently, there was an ice cream social and now its kareoke, with only country songs by the sound of it. I might do Kylie 'Your Disco Needs You'

The Cookie Lady


Almost on the Blue ridge mountains but staying at The Cookie Ladys place. . A cross beween a museum and a backpackers. June is lovely, been feeding cyclists for 33 years. Early start tomorrow, along the ridge. Might manage to get the US sim to work properly with any look, as its cost me about sixty bucks so far. .

Friday 10 July 2009

Uh oh, the mountains are coming. .


Somewhere under the clouds are the appalacians

Camping at last


Last night was the first night under canvas, which was good, and cheap! Had a swim in the river, watched the groundhogs and bats and fell asleep at about 9. . There are black bears around here but they are more scared of than we are of them. . Apparently.

Wednesday 8 July 2009

Wednesday night...sunburnt, fat and tired

It didn't quite go according to plan today....I'm esconced (?) in the Holiday Inn Express, Mechanicsville...I'm supposed to be in my tent about 20 miles up the road but it was either have food and get a room or get to the campsite before it gets dark and miss the food. The food option won. Mmm, and good food, unlike all the hideous junk I've had today. I even had a burger that had probably been cooked about an hour (optimistically) before I got there from a bad grocery store. At the time though, it did taste great. I can't believe how much I've had to drink...I must have had 10 litres of nice and not-so-nice fluids today. The worst was a banana, non-dairy protein drink. The best was a Long Island Iced tea.....

Virginia is very nice indeed. I had to cycle 13 miles from last nights hotel in Williamsburg to Yorktown, then back again as Williamsburg is inland and I hadn't located a hotel in Yorktown. Some of Yorktown was a bit like Colonial themed area in an amusement park but Williamsburg was the genuine article if now full of tourist shops, but quite tastefully done. Very Georgian. On the noticeboard in Yorktown was an invitation to go 'Shagging on the Waterfront' every weekend. As it is very genteel I presume that means something different over here. I cycled through miles of forest today - really big trees, lots of eagles and birds of prey, butterflies, drogonflies etc etc. It was great. And flat fortunately. I'm breaking myself in for the hills - 2 days away I think.

I almost had sausage gravy (and that's not a euphemism,although perhaps it should become one) for breakfast. WTF. It looked like porridge with stuff in it. Thank the Lord I asked first. Who thought of that?? I know the idea is to try new things but no. There are limits.

Getting lost several times didn't help the planning. The maps are good so long as you stay on the road. Move off it and there's no chance. Fortunately the people I've met have been very helpful, with the exception of the guy who I made jump as he couldn't hear me saying 'hello' as his lawnmower was too loud. He really did want to punch me when he'd climbed back down off the kennel. And generally they are very friendly - loads of people wave, one guy was applauding me from his car as I went past. Not quite sure what that was about.

Not managed to get an American SIM card for my phone yet - it appears they don't give them away over here like they do at home. I dread to think what it costs to send the pics over - someone ring Orange and find out!

Aiming for Mineral tomorrow or possibly Charlottesville if it's not too hot.

Day 1, the start


There is no-one around to take there pics for me. . Anyway, this is the Atlantic Ocean. . I'm not putting my wheels in the water as i'll get sand in my SPDs. . I'll take a matching one on the west coast in a couple of months

This is it. . The start


This rather attractive pic is at the Yorktown Victory Monument, celebrating where the French and Americans say off the British in 1781. This is the official start of the TransAmerica bike ride. . Better get going. . Got to get back to the hotel for breakfast. .

Tuesday 7 July 2009

Newark airport


Waiting for the connecting flight to Norfolk, Virginia and this aptly named diner is right next to my gate. Cheers Rubes! First burger of the trip. .